Beef and Bitter Melon
"It's poison; that will kill you" –Mom
You'd think she was referencing bleach or drain cleaner—warranting the '80s Mr. Yuk label—but no, Mom's actually talking about take-out Chinese food. You know: your General Tso, Kung Po chicken, beef and broccoli, etc. Hell hath no fury when it comes to Mamma Li lecturing about Chinese take-out.
"It's not Chinese food, it's for Americans who don't understand how to actually eat," Mom continued. "There's nothing but MSG in there and the way the restaurants run, you'll be lucky if the oil wasn't leftover and reused from previous days—no, you sit there and eat your chow foo gwa."
It's not that I didn't love chow foo gwa (or bitter melon), but I really, really wanted Chinese take-out because the Sarahs and Emilys of my life would rave about it. I wanted to feel included. But Mom (for good reason) refused to spend hard-earned $$$ on Chinese take-out. It took a time-consuming science project at Katie's house to wash away the virginal MSG-free glow I shamefully carried. We had shrimp lo mein, chicken fried rice, and beef and broccoli—and it was f****** delicious.
From that day forth, I harbored a secret love of Chinese take-out. It's stupidly satisfying. It became my go-to drunk food in college, eaten while hushing Mom's voice in the back of my head telling me that I was poisoning my body. Sorry Mom.
She still doesn't know this secret that I hold near and dear to my heart. Everyone has a favorite and I'm no exception—I always ordered beef and broccoli. Which isn't even Chinese, because guess what: broccoli isn't a Chinese vegetable!
Instead we eat things like beef and bitter melon. Exactly as it sounds, bitter melon possesses a sharp, bitter flavor, but pairs incredibly well with beef and pork. It brings out the sweetness of the meats while in turn the meats soften the bitter profile of the fruit. It will never be as widely received as beef and broccoli in America, but if you're looking for something with more culinary complexity, give the bitter melon recipe a try. You'll be eating like the villagers in China.
Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS (FOR 2)
PREP
1. Slice bitter melon in half length-wise, then thinly slice each side width-wise. Place in mixing bowl and pour in the 1 tbsp salt, massaging it in with your hands to reduce the moisture from the bitter melon (about 5 minutes). Rinse the salt away with water and set aside (it's counterintuitive, I know, but go with it).
2. Thinly slice ribeye and add 3/4 tbsp of the oil, the pinch of flour, and salt and pepper. I use white pepper because it brings out the flavor better in Asian dishes, but black pepper works just as well. Set aside
3. Crush douchi, ginger, and garlic using a mortar and pestle or food processor. Set aside.
COOK
1. Add the rest of the oil to a pan and toss in bitter melon.
2. Stir in the douchi, ginger, and garlic mixture and cook for about 10 minutes or until the bitter melon turns a deep green, stirring every few minutes.*
3. Mix in the beef and stir for a few minutes until the beef is barely pink, then turn off the stove. Continue to stir the dish, letting the beef cook from the residual heat.
EAT
The beef and bitter melon recipe should be served with a side of rice.
*If you're really not a fan of bitter foods, add an egg to the mixture and it'll take the bitterness out—that's mom trick when she serves the dish to people who can't appreciate the complexity of bitter flavors.